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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.